I finished my early Victorian undergarments, now I will have a proper foundation wear for 1840s Printed Cotton Dress I made before and other dresses to come! :)
First layer:
Chemise. Which is a basic nightie style garment made in cotton or linen (mine is made in cotton voile), usually quite plain without many trims. Chemise would have been changed to new one each day. I´ll have to make some more. ;) Pattern by me.
Second layer:
Corset. This isn´t an actual Victorian corset. The pattern is from the book The Great British Sewing Bee- Fashion with Fabric. It is the only corset pattern I had and I was eager to finally make one since I had the fabric and notions for it for over a year. It was great fun and I plan to make many more! ;) The thing to remember (if you are tall and you need to lengthen your pattern as I did) : buy extra boning! The mannequin is slightly smaller than the corset.
Back view of the corset. Pattern suggested only 2 meters of ribbon for lacing. I did a little research and found out up to 7,3 meters is an usual length of ribbon. And the retched eyelets! It is nearly impossible to hammer them with jumpy neighbors downstairs. :( An eyelet machine is definitely something I´ll have to get if I plan to make any more corsets...
Front and back view of the corset without chemise.
Third layer:
Petticoat. This is actually High Street cotton skirt (which has a petticoat of its own). I added frill and lace trims to it to get more volume. I will be adding more frills when I´ll get the right fabric for it. I figured why to buy new fabric and sew the whole thing if I have already something similar in my wardrobe that can by enhanced. It is a very Victorian thing to do, to mend and alter existing clothes into newest fashion ;)
Fourth layer:
Corset cover. The corset wasn´t supposed to be seen peaking from under the bodice so the corset cover was worn to protect wearer´s modesty. Corset cover also protected the corset. Corset covers were often heavily trimmed as they could have been seen if the bodice had lover neckline. This is a sleeveless version with elasticated waist and button fastening on front made in cotton voile. Pattern by me.
Detail of the lace trims and satin ribbon decoration on shoulder.
Corset cover photographed on its own without any other undergarments.
Fifth layer:
Top-petticoat. The top petticoat would have been trimmed the most with frills, lace and ribbons. I got a beautiful cotton fabric with embroidered scallop-edge. I didn´t want to "overtrim" this one because of the delicacy of the fabric. Circumference of the skirt is 4,2 meters and it is stitched by hand to waistband using cartridge pleating method.
Here is the top petticoat worn over a crinoline. Love the volume!
The only trim I used is wide broderie anglaise with thin satin ribbon weaved in.
A detail of the fabric´s embroidered scallop-edge.
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